Riri - a zip fastener conquers the world

Prof Christine Volkmann on a global company whose success story began in Barmen and the enormous potential of the Bergisch start-up scene

In 1923, Swedish-born Gideon Sundbäck tried to sell his patent no. 99924 - a process for producing detachable connections using tiny ball joints and clamping jaws - in Switzerland and ended up with Dr Martin Othmar Petrus Notker Winterhalter, an entrepreneur who turned this patent into his greatest coup, namely the development of the "Riri". What was it all about?

Volkmann: Gideon Sundbäck, a Swedish-American engineer, had developed a process that consisted of interlocking teeth that were attached to fabric straps and could be opened or closed with a slider. However, his product was not yet mature enough to be mass-produced, and there was also a lack of vision for concrete potential applications for this technology.
In 1923, Martin Othmar Winterhalter, a Swiss entrepreneur, acquired the European rights to this patent for 100,000 Swiss francs. He recognised the enormous potential of the invention and founded the company Riri in Halle an der Saale in 1924. The name is derived from the words "groove" and "rib" - a fitting name for the mechanics of the zip.

Winterhalter's decisive contribution was the further development of the design and, above all, the optimisation of production techniques. He designed machines that enabled efficient, cost-effective and serial production. This made the zip available for widespread use in the clothing industry and Riri quickly developed into a leading manufacturer in Europe, known for quality and innovation.

Winterhalter developed the hooks and eyelets to series maturity. On his drawing board, the beads and jaws became "ribs and grooves", or "Riri" for short. Experts say that "Riri" was the magic of a new era. And this era was ushered in in Barmen, wasn't it?

Volkmann: Exactly. Industrial series production of the "Riri" zip fastener actually began in the Barmen district of Wuppertal. After Martin Othmar Winterhalter had acquired the European rights to Gideon Sundbäck's patent, he founded a production facility in Halle an der Saale in 1924. However, he moved production to Barmen as early as 1927 because the district was an economic hotspot for the textile industry at the time. There he perfected machine production and registered numerous patents. By the beginning of 1925, 100 workers were already producing 500 metres of zip fastener a day, and by the end of the year, thanks to 1,000 employees, the figure had risen to 10,000 metres a day. This shows how groundbreaking this innovation was - and how crucial Barmen was to its success.

Mrs Volkmann, you head the Chair of Entrepreneurship and Intercultural Management at the University of Wuppertal. Your chair activities also include transfer and start-up consulting. Can the company Riri actually be cited as an early example of a start-up company in Wuppertal?

Volkmann: Absolutely, even if the term "start-up" was not yet in common use at the time. Start-ups are characterised by innovative business ideas and high growth potential, and that's exactly what Riri embodied in the 1920s. Martin Othmar Winterhalter used innovative thinking to make the zip fastener marketable by replacing the original hooks and eyes with "ribs and grooves". In addition, the company achieved rapid growth after relocating production to Wuppertal-Barmen in 1925 - with 10,000 metres of zip fasteners produced every day. This shows that Riri acted like a modern start-up at the time: innovative, scalable and growth-orientated.

From 1925, 1000 workers produced around 10,000 metres of "Riri" on the assembly line every day. At the same time, 25 new patents for machine production were registered. From 1928, the zip fastener was also licensed. That was already a successful marketing strategy. What tips would you give founders today on setting up a company?

Volkmann: The history of Riri still offers many valuable lessons today. One key point is that founders should focus on innovation and problem-solving. Just as Riri developed the zip fastener back then, today's start-ups could look for ways to improve existing products or services or find new solutions to existing problems.
Another crucial factor is scalability. Riri gained enormous efficiency and production capacity through the introduction of assembly line production. Even today, founders should develop business models that can grow right from the start - be it through automation, digital products or licensing. Speaking of licensing: Riri licensed its technology from 1928 onwards, which opened up additional sources of revenue and accelerated growth. This shows how important it is to protect yourself through patents or trademark rights and to enter into strategic partnerships.
Another tip is to focus on quality. Riri invested in machine production early on, which ensured consistent quality and productivity. This is just as important for today's companies - customers expect not only innovation, but also reliability.
Marketing and branding are also crucial. The name "Riri", derived from "ribs and grooves", was a memorable branding element. Today's founders should develop a strong brand identity and utilise digital channels to effectively reach their target audience.
In addition, agility and flexibility are essential. Riri has reacted quickly to new opportunities, be it by relocating production to Wuppertal or by granting licences. Modern start-ups must also be prepared to adapt their strategies dynamically when market opportunities arise.

And finally, sustainability is an issue that is becoming increasingly important today. Customers are increasingly paying attention to ecological and social responsibility. Companies that integrate this into their strategies gain a competitive advantage.

From 1929, the Swiss company cashed in on practically every zip fastener produced on the globe. When the Nazis wanted to place his factories under state guardianship, Winterhalter had his machinery in Wuppertal loaded onto lorries and smuggled to Switzerland in a lightning operation. How can start-ups prepare for crises today?

Volkmann: Crises often hit companies unexpectedly, which is why start-ups should plan preventative measures as early as the founding phase. First and foremost, this includes having a solid financial cushion that can absorb unforeseeable expenses. At the same time, it is essential to remain flexible: Business models that rely on multiple sources of income are more resilient. The pandemic has also shown how important a digital infrastructure is - digital business processes and access to cloud-based solutions ensure the ability to act even in difficult times.
Another important element is the diversification of supply chains in order to avoid dependencies. Start-ups with limited resources in particular should simulate scenarios in order to anticipate potential crises and develop appropriate contingency plans. A good example is Winterhalter, which reacted quickly to imminent danger and moved its machinery out of the country. Today, start-ups can benefit from such decisive action by preparing for crisis situations at an early stage and reacting flexibly to changes. Regular crisis drills and a clear communication strategy are essential in this respect.

Winterhalter had factories in Switzerland, Germany, Luxembourg and Italy. He was known for his dissolute life. Twice he managed to avoid being hospitalised in a psychiatric clinic by the directors of the "Riri Werke". The third time, he was sedated with an injection and taken to a clinic: kidnapped by his own employees and on behalf of his closest relatives. It sounds like a thriller. The bigger the company, the more envious people appear on the scene. How can successful companies protect themselves from this?

Volkmann: The success of a company often attracts unwanted attention - both from the outside and from within. It is therefore crucial that founders promote an open and transparent corporate culture. A clear vision and values that are consistently communicated and practised from the management level to the employees create trust. This prevents mistrust and envy from developing.
At the same time, clear hierarchies and decision-making processes are necessary. These ensure that all employees feel heard and that conflicts are addressed at an early stage. Regular employee appraisals and anonymous feedback opportunities can provide valuable insights into the internal mood.

However, the case of Winterhalter also shows that internal conflicts can escalate. It is therefore advisable to build up a network of external advisors, mediators or lawyers who can intervene to provide support in sensitive situations. An open communication policy also helps to prevent rumours and misunderstandings, for example when it comes to company decisions. By taking preventative measures, founders can create a strong corporate culture that protects against internal tensions in the long term.

Winterhalter lived a life between genius and madness. The king of the zip fastener died incapacitated in an asylum. Today, more zips are needed than ever before - in industrialised countries more than twenty metres per human life, and statistically, one billion Chinese already manage six to seven metres per person. Nevertheless, the company "Riri", which now belongs to a bank, has hardly anything left to order on the world market. A successful start-up can also be scary. Where can you get help?

Volkmann: The path to self-employment is often associated with great uncertainty and anxiety - especially as the company grows and responsibility increases. In such situations, founders should not hesitate to seek help. A first port of call are networks and start-up associations that promote dialogue with like-minded people. Dialogue with other entrepreneurs offers valuable advice and boosts self-confidence.
Programmes such as the Berg Pitch, which takes place in Wuppertal, Solingen and Remscheid, not only offer young companies a stage for their ideas, but also access to potential investors and mentors. Such events make it possible to receive feedback and network with experienced entrepreneurs. There are also numerous incubators and accelerators that provide not only financial support but also advisory expertise.
Coaching programmes and psychological advice should also not be underestimated. Mental pressure in particular can become a burden, which is why it is important to build up emotional resilience. A coach can help you reflect on your fears, set priorities and maintain a clear focus. Finally, special seminars on personal development or stress management are also valuable tools for dealing with the challenges of everyday start-up life with confidence.

Innovation and new ideas are always important. Today, the zip fastener is indispensable for everyday use. However, after 100 years, both the materials and the use of the product have changed. It is used in bags, tents, diving suits, fish and bird nets or as a 6300 kilometre long protective cover for transatlantic telephone cables. So a founder must always be a visionary, right?

Volkmann: Without question! Founders should have the ability to think beyond the status quo. Visionary founders not only recognise the potential of an idea, but also how it can develop further and adapt to new requirements, needs and environments. The zip is a great example of this: originally designed for clothing, it now has countless applications in very different areas - from sports equipment to high-tech industries. Such interdisciplinary approaches are essential in order to create innovative solutions that transcend industry-specific boundaries. A visionary founder recognises these connections and understands that innovation often arises at the intersection of different disciplines. Success lies in combining different perspectives and developing products or technologies that are versatile and forward-looking.
A visionary recognises such opportunities and does not allow short-term hurdles and initial social scepticism to slow them down. At the same time, it is important to remain flexible, because not every vision fulfils exactly as it was originally intended. But if you have a clear view of future trends and needs, you can create innovations that will last. Visions are the foundation on which sustainable success is built.

One of the biggest events in this context is the Berg Pitch. What exactly is it?

Volkmann : The Berg Pitch is one of the most exciting start-up events in the Wuppertal, Solingen and Remscheid region. Innovative founders meet here to present their business ideas to a high-calibre jury and an audience of potential investors, company representatives and interested parties in a concise six-minute pitch. The aim of the event is to promote the best ideas from the region and offer them a platform for visibility.
The event not only facilitates valuable contacts within the start-up scene, but also offers direct feedback and sometimes the chance of initial funding. The unique atmosphere is particularly impressive: the Berg Pitch is often held in special locations, such as a former film theatre, which makes the event a real highlight.
To summarise, the Berg Pitch is much more than just a competition - it is a stage for creativity, innovation and entrepreneurial spirit. At the same time, it sends out a strong signal of how lively the start-up landscape is in the Bergisches Land region.

Where can I go if I have a really great start-up idea?

Volkmann: There are numerous contact points in Wuppertal that support founders with their innovative ideas. One of the central addresses is Freiraum, the START-UP CENTRE at the University of Wuppertal. Here you will receive support from the initial idea through to its concrete realisation - be it through individual advice, practice-oriented workshops or assistance in drawing up a business plan. The transfer unit of the Jackstädt Centre for Entrepreneurship and Innovation Research plays an important role in Wuppertal in the promotion of university start-up projects and young entrepreneurs as well as in networking.

Another important point of contact is the IHK Wuppertal-Solingen-Remscheid with its STARTERCENTER NRW, which is specially tailored to the needs of start-ups. It offers guidance on questions about financing, legal framework conditions and networking. Not to be forgotten are the start-up centres such as the Wuppertal Technology Centre (W-tec), which provides young companies with office space, modern infrastructure and comprehensive consulting services. These centres often open up valuable contacts with other start-ups and experienced entrepreneurs who can provide advice and support. One highlight of start-up support in Wuppertal is Circular Valley, an initiative that supports start-ups with a focus on sustainability and the circular economy. Circular Valley offers access to a global network of business, science and funding programmes. There are numerous other providers beyond Wuppertal, including the Gründerschmiede in Remscheid and the Start-up and Technology Centre in Solingen.

It is particularly worthwhile to take part in recurring events at the university of Wuppertal such as the Start-up Days, the Women Entrepreneurs in Science Summit or regional network meetings organised by initiatives such as the Digital Hub Wuppertal. Here you can meet like-minded people, get valuable feedback and possibly gain your first investors. Wuppertal offers a dynamic and growing start-up scene with enormous potential. Hence my appeal to all founders: Seize this opportunity and take the first step!

Uwe Blass

Prof Dr Christine K. Volkmann has held the Chair of Entrepreneurship and Economic Development at the Schumpeter School of Business and Economics at the University of Wuppertal since 2008. She has held the UNESCO Chair of Entrepreneurship and Intercultural Management at BUW since 2010.